United States of America

February 5, 2015January 20, 2015

5 Things to Do in Nashville besides Eat or Listen to Music

Okay, okay, you have full permission to go to Nashville and do nothing but eat and listen to music. You could easily focus on these two activities and have an unforgettable experience. In case you need to do something between meals to help you digest, here are a few ideas.

Check out the Men's Room near the Oak Bar at the Hermitage Hotel. — Check out the Men’s Room near the Oak Bar at the Hermitage Hotel.

Go to the Men’s Room at the Hermitage Hotel
Chetty, glass artist, was part of hotel restoration team

When we told people we were staying at the Hermitage Hotel, they’d say “Be sure to check out the Men’s Room. It’s famous.” So late one night we had Chuck check for occupants and when he gave us the all clear we went in. There is a blocked tunnel legislators used to go to and fro from the Capitol. The lavatory is beautiful and unique with green subway glass and art deco décor. Then my sister-in-law’s mom, Chetty, came to give me a tour of Nashville. First stop the Men’s Room, but from a slightly different perspective. Chetty sourced the glass for the bathroom and the lobby stained glass when the hotel was restored to its former glory.

Ride a bike along the Cumberland riverfront

Not so appealing in January–when I was there it was too cold. Nashville has a city bike program so you can rent, grab and go. The last mayor promoted building lots more trails and connecting greenways, plus there are new bike lanes on roads. Start your adventure near the Shelby Street Bridge and park by the Titans’ stadium. Bonus: get a great view of downtown Nashville

See the Parthenon

This replica was built for the USA Centennial celebration in 1876 and maintained by the citizens of Nashville. (They heard the other one was falling down.) It has an art gallery inside, check for hours.

Shop for books

My friends bought boots on Broadway at one of the 3 or 4 boot stores. I made a beeline for Parnassus Books. A citadel for independent bookstores and owned by author Ann Patchett, you can purchase all of her novels signed and request to have them personalized. Or you can discover a new author. We spent over an hour here (and I will not admit how much money. I spent) They ship to your home—one day soon it will be like the day the Scholastic books arrived in the classroom. Yippee.

Soak up some history

Nashville is rich in history: Native American, Natchez Trace, Trail of Tears, Daniel Boone, Civil War, Civil Rights, Country Music. Everyday we were there we overheard people talking about the war. At first we were not sure what war. Upon more careful eavesdropping we realized they were talking about the Civil War! (Let it go.) We made quick stops at Sunnyside antebellum plantation home and Travellers Rest where the Confederate generals were headquartered during the battle for Nashville.

If I had more time, I might have also taken in the Johnny Cash museum or the Country Music Hall of Fame. Or go shopping in Franklin or The Gulch. My list is based on recommendations from locals we met along the way and my sister-in-law’s family who hosted me one afternoon.

For more ideas check out the fun little guide Nashville: Wildsam Field Guides. Or watch the HBO Sonic Highways episode on Nashville.

January 19, 2015January 17, 2015

7+ Knitting Wonders at Vogue Knitting Live

Need inspiration for any creative act. Check out this photo essay from Vogue Knitting LIve NYC (January 16-18, 2015). Interested in experiencing VKL–Pasadena and Chicago–where creativity abounds. VogueKnittingLive.com

January 17, 2015January 22, 2015

Hip and Chic Knitter Goes to Vogue Knitting Live in NYC

Vogue Knitting Live (VKL) is a showcase of all things knitting–without the sheep. It is full of opportunities to learn and be inspired from the “yarn tasting” area to two ballrooms full of shopping temptation. I am in New York City to visit a friend and to check out Vogue Knitting Live NYC. Last year I went to VKL in Seattle. I took a class and checked out the marketplace on a Friday when I was in Seattle. My Icelandic knitting class was terrific; however, this time I did not see a compelling class, so I focused on the marketplace.

Converse makes knit sneakers! Inspiration is everywhere including other knitters' feet. — Converse makes knit sneakers! Inspiration is everywhere including other knitters’ feet.

I am not sure if it is the Saturday crowd or New York City but the energy level was way higher than Seattle! It was like a sale in the basement of Barneys. People were having fun shopping, trying on garments, watching fashion shows. Plus everywhere you go in the 3 floors of the Marriott Marquis Hotel there are women knitting and talking to each other.

Knitter tries on Heidi & Lana's sample shawl with cool buckle. Available in kit. — Knitter tries on Heidi & Lana’s sample shawl with cool buckle. Available in kit.

I promised myself that I was not going to buy yarn because I have a healthy stash at home and enough unfinished projects already. Besides there were plenty of other things to purchase like a t-shirt that says “Knitting is sexy” and patterns. Shout out to the Stella Lighting folks who are going to keep me from ruining my eyesight while stitching. My favorite logo was the Dancing Sheep. My favorite both decoration was Heidi & Lana.

Socks featured at Rowan fashion show. — Not many fashion shows feature socks! Rowan knits.

The scarf is made in Knit Collage’s Gypsy Garden, Mermaid Cafe. “In Gypsy Garden, wool, mohair and sparkling polyester fibers called Angelina are handspun together with tiny flower trims, sequins and bits of lace & ribbons.”

Saturday offers fashion shows and I took in several. The DMC and Rowan shows were interesting and each had one or two garments that I was interested in creating. The crowds grew as the day advanced. At 2:15 the Stephen & Steven Spectacular! hit the stage. It was the funk version of fashion show with dancers and models dressed and draped in color and texture. Steven Be has groupies and they were there in force and some of them even went on stage to join the fun. It was like watching a George Clinton concert.

Rowan Knits featured a variety of patterns including including garments using Istek Lopi.

Stephen & Steven Spectacular! — Uptown funk at Vogue Knitting Live!

I got so caught up in the excitement that I bought a skein of yarn at Steven’s booth along with Stephen West and Steven Be’s Mixed Tape pattern book.

You can catch the last day of Vogue Knitting Live in New York City Sunday January 18 from 10 – 4. Marketplace entrance fee is $20. Do not miss it If you like to knit!

Here are some of my favorite products…

The "ewe clip" holds one or more needles and keeps your work from sliding off. www.purlyewe.com — The “ewe clip” holds one or more needles and keeps your work from sliding off. http://www.purlyewe.com

This plastic ball protects your yarn on the go, or in my case from Lulu's sharp teeth. — This plastic ball protects your yarn on the go, or in my case from Lulu’s sharp teeth. theyarnit.com

November 20, 2014November 18, 2014

Sunday Morning Farmers Market in Inner Richmond

Inner Richmond is a San Francisco neighborhood between Golden Gate Park and the Presidio. Clement Avenue is the main street. I like the Sunset District, North Beach and other neighborhoods, so it was fun to spend a few hours mooching around on Sunday. It is also a day when the Farmer’s Market is open on Clement at 2nd Avenue.

Buy truffles or chocolate bars at Jade Chocolate.

As I write this I am munching on a Krakatoa chocolate bar from Jade Chocolate. It is flavored with black pepper and lemongrass and is a perfect chocolate with coffee for after dinner.

Performer serenades children at Farmers Market.

I lingered over the Petaluma Happy Hens Farms stand where one can buy eggs and grass-fed poultry, pork and beef. Sometimes it is fun to spend time in a neighborhood just hanging out like a local.

Eats Restaurant a great place for breakfast or lunch at Clement & 2nd.

November 18, 2014November 18, 2014

Off the Beaten Tourist Path in San Francisco: Golden Gate Park

Most visitors to San Francisco flock to Union Square, or Fisherman’s Wharf. I get why people spend their first visit to San Francisco riding a cable car or cycling across the Golden Gate Bridge or walking from Ghiradelli Square to Pier 39, or shopping at Union Square. In San Francisco, there is so much to do if you are willing to spend a little more time and go off the crowded tourist path. (And please do not call it “Frisco”; if you must shorten “San Fran” is okay. “The City” is what locals call this beautiful place.)

One frustration is finding parking. My Plan A to participate with my Brompton on a locally organized “Tweed Ride” was derailed by my inability to find parking. So I rerouted to Golden Gate Park. Over the years I have visited the San Francisco Botanical Garden, the DeYoung Art Museum multiple times and the Japanese Tea Garden and Conservatory of Flowers at least once. I parked my car and unpacked my bike and set out to find some new-to-me areas of the park.

Parking at 11:00 a.m. on Sunday was not easy to find–luckily Ivy is compact. The first place I cycled to was the Lawn Bowling Club of San Francisco. I turned to investigate and discovered a complex of tennis courts and then a children’s area. There is an extensive playground, a carousel and a hot dog stand with ice cream. Perfect for an outing with your kids or a first date.

I continued pedaling around and enjoyed the car free streets on Sunday. I especially liked watching the dads teaching their kids to ride bikes. I just gave a grown-up friend a lesson in riding a bike so I watched with curiosity. How is the learning process different for children? The main thing I noticed is that adults feel foolish using training wheels, so we compensate by lowering the seat so the learner can touch the ground easily with their feet and scoot along until their sense of balance allows them to begin pedaling. Both kids and adults need a lot of encouragement.

Autumn and spring are the best times of year to visit San Francisco. The weather is usually beautiful. On this Sunday, there were many people jogging, and even more people riding their road bikes. Or push your kids in a stroller on the car-free interior streets and spend a day at the playground and carousel.

November 16, 2014

Walk Chicago’s Michigan Avenue

Downtown Chicago is the most beautiful downtown in the USA. Just walk Michigan Avenue. I stayed at Club Quarters at Wacker and Michigan. I walked across the Chicago River and a few blocks and the shopping began. Nordstrom and Bloomingdales are not architecturally interesting, but its the inside that matters.

Walk back across the river and a couple of blocks and you are at Millenium Park and a block or two from the South Lakeshore Drive.

Frank Gehry designed the Jay Pritzger Pavilion at Millenium Park

There is the famous Cloud, which is always different depending on the weather and the people interacting with the sculpture.

These are new sculptures from my last visit to Chicago. People have already created ways to interact with them.

Across the street from Millenium Park is the Art Institute of Chicago. I have spent many hours on previous trips. This time I only visited the bookstore (a terrific bookstore). The walk along the park continues all the way to Field Museum and Soldier Field.

The park goes on. I have never walked past Soldier Field. There is a city bike rental program if you want to find a quick way to get back.

November 12, 2014

Highwire Act Over Chicago River

On Sunday November 2, 2014, Nik Wallenda walked a tightrope between these two high rise buildings and over the Chicago River.

You cannot see the wires. They are there, because I was there. I saw the crowds gather. I heard fellow guests in the Club Quarters elevator discuss watching it–pros and cons. What if he falls?

I sat at the outdoor cafe at my hotel and ate a pizza while waiting for him to walk. Finally it was just too cold and it was not clear when it was going to happen. So I went up to the 38th floor where hotel staff said there was a window. Management made a maid stay there and shoo guests away. I got another view but not a good photo. Still no Wallenda.

I went to my funny triangular shaped room on the 34th floor. Unfortunately it looked out a different direction. So I watched it on the Discovery Channel. http://www.skyscraperlive.com/ I liked hearing Nik’s commentary. He walked across then returned and walked the same direction again only blindfolded. Whew. Glad he made it.

Every time I go to Chicago there is something fun and cool happening–the Taste, a stunt like Nik Wallenda’s, the cross town rivalry game between White Sox and Cubs. This is one of the reasons I love Chicago.

November 10, 2014

5 Inspirations from Frank Lloyd Wright’s Home and Museum

Frank Lloyd Wright Home and Studio museum in Oak Park, Illinois

I have long wanted to go to Frank Lloyd Wright’s home and studio in Oak Park (just outside Chicago on the green line). I thought I had to rent a car to get there. The beauty of Google Maps (click train option) and I made plans to visit at last.

Getting there on the green line actually was a little more complicated because I was trying to get on in Bridgeport instead of downtown. I had made a 2:00 p.m. tour reservation and after a bus ride to Roosevelt station it still was not clear when the train was departing. I pulled the “quick release” and called Lyft. The driver Caroline lives in Oak Park so I not only got there in plenty of time, I learned a lot about this first suburb of Chicago (all for $23).

Frank Lloyd Wright was just starting his career as an architect and getting married when he bought a piece of land on the edge of town and built his family home. At that time his home looked out on the prairie and he was able to draw inspiration from nature for his work. I thought about the interesting things I observed in his home and found these 5 inspirations.

Frank Lloyd Wright's first home was built on the edge of the prarie. — Frank Lloyd Wright’s first home was built on the edge of the prarie.

1. Marry wisely if you plan to use your home as a place of experimentation.

The family home evolved over the 20 years they lived there. They raised 6 children in this home. FLW worked out many of his ideas in his own remodeling projects. Lucky for him he seems to have chosen his wife well as she let him design not just the architecture but the furnishings as well.

2. If you are going to be a prick-ly person, then you better be a genius or super talent.

Stories abound of FLW’s very particular vision and his disregard for others feelings in his pursuit of this vision. Our docent did not sugar coat why he got fired–he was designing homes behind his bosses’ backs. Moonlighting is frowned upon when you are keeping business to yourself and not sharing the fees with the partners. In college I had the honor of going to a conference at Wingspread in Racine, Wisconsin. Wingspread is a prairie home (mansion) that FLW designed for the Johnson&Johnson family. They told stories of him returning to visit and staying up all night rearranging the furniture and generally being an eccentric and demanding house guest.

3. It is fun to be creative and design special things for your own living space.

FLW designed many decorative elements of his home (such as the skylight in the photo below). He must have enjoyed it.

4. You have to be willing to stand out and risk ridicule if you are an original thinker.

Frank Lloyd Wright made a huge impact on American architecture because he was willing to take risks.

After the tour I walked about 4 blocks to main street Oak Park through a beautiful neighborhood contemporary to his home. The docent said we would be able to see several of his homes on our walk. He was absolutely correct and they were easy to spot. The homes of the period, when he was developing his unique vision, were Victorian. Stately yes, but not very interesting.

Compare this to the lines of one of his early designs. This is a clunkier version than the clean modern lines he eventually made popular, but already it is a big departure and a risky choice for both the homeowners and FLW.

5. If you are going to think outside the box, it helps to be short.

The piano that he inset in the wall to save space in the interior of the “playroom” is suspended and hangs out over the staircase. This is fine if you are 5’9″ or shorter.

November 6, 2014November 6, 2014

#DoTheHaka: New Zealand Kiwis in Chicago

When the New Zealand All Blacks rugby team descending on Chitown for a test match with the USA Eagles a large number of Kiwis living abroad in the USA and Canada gathered. Walking around the Chicago Loop, an adventurer could hear many men and women speaking with the softer, prettier antipodean accent.

This was a historic occasion as the All Blacks had not played in the USA since 1980. It became an opportunity for All Blacks sponsor AIG to introduce Americans to some traditions in rugby and New Zealand culture. The most obvious is the haka. This is the war cry and dance that the Maori developed to intimidate their opponents. In modern New Zealand it is a living part of the culture. My favorite haka performance is the one my son and his fellow People to People travellers did for us in the Sacramento Airport upon returning from New Zealand in 2003. AIG’s #DoTheHaka video shows you how to perform Ka Mate.

The All Blacks first performed the haka as part of the pre-match rituals in 1905. While other teams do a haka before the match (youth teams, Polynesian teams) it is most strongly identified with the All Blacks. Read here for a history of Ka Mate on the All Blacks website.

Why does the haka strike fear into opponents? Could it be the sheer size of the All Blacks players? Other teams are also made up of big guys. More likely it is the intensity of the performance and the impact of the entire team doing it in unison. This is a group of guys who are bonded and demonstrating how they are going to play as a unit on the field. I am thinking that if you are the USA Eagles on November 1 at 2:50 p.m. you are thinking “Oh crap. I am in for it now.”

The Field Museum, Chicago’s natural history museum, put together a special exhibit to celebrate the haka and New Zealand culture. The Field Museum is right next to Soldier Field so I swung in there and used my rugby ticket for a discount. ($13 admission) The ticket sales person pointed upstairs and said it was by the Marai. I trooped off and spent a while wondering through the labyrinth of the Pacific exhibit until I found the Maori meeting house.

The first time I visited the Field Museum I found their aged exhibits charming and retro. On this visit, especially with a new exhibit done in much the same style, I found it underwhelming. Wondering why they did not reach out to Auckland Museum for assistance. In fact, in my mind I was comparing this exhibit to one the Auckland Museum might do and finding the whole presentation lacking in spirit and content.

The haka in modern culture is a fun, living thing that includes flash mob hakas, school hakas, and so much more. The best way to appreciate the haka is to see it live. I dare you not to get chills.

The next best thing is to see the All Blacks haka from the game on November 1.

November 3, 2014

Heavenly Gospel Brunch at Polo Café

Polo Cafe in Bridgeport Chicago neighborhood on S Morgan Street

How does a café located so far out of the Loop earn the #1 TripAdvisor ranking among Chicago restaurants? This was the question popping in my head like corn during the $16.45 cab ride to Bridgeport, a Chicago neighborhood near the White Sox ballpark.

The cab driver asked me if I was sure this was the place. I could see the sign across the street, although the Polo Café was a few minutes from open. I paid the fare and snapped a few photos and then put my camera away. The neighborhood was sketch. I could not decide if it was gritty and a long way from coming back, or gritty and up-and-coming.

The owner of the Polo Café is a one-man redevelopment district. I admire neighborhood entrepreneurs who have a café and catering company in what used to be a candy company. Next door the old Eagle Theater is now an event venue. And upstairs is a bed and breakfast.

The neighborhood has banners that indicate that it is an art district. Seems more hope than reality so far.

The restaurant is smallish. Two round top tables in the window, maybe a dozen booths inside with a long table for bigger groups. In the corner was the electric piano where a middle age white guy with a soulful voice led the gospel hymns for the Gospel Brunch.

I sat next to the window and faced the fascinating chalk art depicting the political history of the neighborhood and of Chicago. This is where the Daley family began their political careers.

The service was great—my water and coffee cup were never less than half full. The waiter eventually warmed to me after a bad start over the pie on the menu not being available. He thought I was busting his chops. I was truly disappointed not to be able to try the pie. I did try the house specialty, the brioche French toast. Wow. It was amazing, although very sweet with fruit cocktail and whip cream topping. The bacon was also very good—cooked to crisp perfection.

I hung out for quite awhile reading my book and enjoying the hymns. I am not sure why but I got a break on my bill. Coffee was on the house. With some good directions from my waiter I finally took a last sip of water and set off to walk off the brioche.

Brioche French toast with side of bacon at Polo Cafe

It was about a mile on 35^th Street to the green line train. I only made one stop at the specialty pet food shop. The one person working there greeted me from the sidewalk (where she just finished a smoke break) and helped me select some treats for Lulu, Cooper and Chaplin. All the while she told me that Bridgeport was indeed gentrifying and that it was a good thing. She loaded me down with samples and I winced only slightly when I realized I was going to need to schlepp these all over Chicago and get them home.

On the way to the Polo Café my female cab driver asked if I was meeting someone at the restaurant. I explained I was traveling alone. She then expressed her amazement that I would travel alone. Her judgment was wrapped in a thin veil of compliment. I had already been thinking that my whole weekend would have been much more fun with a friend. I found myself explaining to the driver that I am not going to wait until I have a partner to do things; however, I felt sad and more trepidation about how far this restaurant was from the hotel.

Then the good times and eats at brunch and then dog treat shopping reminded me why I travel—solo or otherwise. I love the experience and the people I meet.