There is a sign as you enter old town Oamaru that says Steampunk HQ. It could just as easily say Eccentric HQ. This is saying something for New Zealand.
An eccentric is someone who dances to their own tune with very little concern for cultural norms. They often pursue their passions single-mindedly and with an unusual perspective.
There are a lot of eccentric people in America, but per capita, I’d place a bet that New Zealand has more. I’ve met Kiwis pursuing excellence in playing piano at midlife, people making films self-taught, lots of poets, and more. In Akaroa is the Giant’s House garden. In Nelson, someone started the World of Wearable Art.
In David Harbourne’s book, Penguins Under the Porch, he profiles many people in the Oamaru area with an eccentric streak. I’ve just shared Dot’s Castle . Just down the highway is Fleurs Place where Fleur makes the most amazing seafood where her closest neighbor are the Moeraki Boulders. There is the community of steampunk officiandos and people who love dressing up in Victorian dress.
I stayed at a proper Bed and Breakfast. Federation House is over 100 years old and for several decades it has been the restoration project of owner and host, Rodger McCaw. I enjoyed an off season room rate and Rodger showed me round the whole house in the morning. The views from the common room and some bedrooms is incomparable. The decor is quirky and comfortable. It was fun to remember the individuality of the classic B&B.
If you are driving down Highway 1, Oamaru is great place to stay a night or two.
I was enjoying coffee with Ole and Karen and telling them of my travel plans. Karen shared a tv clip on Dot’s Castle and they both thought the food at the Riverstone Kitchen was really good. I decided to make it my destination for lunch. It took a lot longer to drive there than anticipated (and I don’t think I took any wrong turns). I arrived an hour before the dining room was closing, and I needed to eat and get underway to not miss the little blue penguins return to Oamaru.
I did a quick turn through Dot’s “best Bloody shop for miles.” It was an interesting collection of home design items, but all breakable, largish items that are like dead weight when you travel. She also offers an interesting plant selection–again not great for overseas travelers. After my week driving through South Island, I could understand the draw. The mostly small towns that dot the countryside don’t offer a lot of shopping options. Here in one stop you will likely find something you want or need or at least have fun trying.
I was pretty hungry by the time I sat down to order, and I’d been self-catering for a couple of days, so I was ready for a proper meal. I ordered the brussel sprout salad and fish and chips. I also discovered Hopt elderberry flavored soda. It was all so delish and satisfying. The Riverstone Kitchen was started in 2006 by Bevan and Monique Smith and focuses on local flavors and produce. Their dad (Neil) and mum (Dot) manage the dairy business that allows Dot to build the family castle from locally quarried stone.
I also enjoyed gazing out at the kitchen garden and castle in the distance. Children played and people walked dogs on a long stretch of lawn with hedgerows. I recommend making a stop at Riverstone part of your road trip on South Island’s Highway 1.