Last month when the rest of the nation was in the grip of the polar vortex, I found myself driving across the Golden Gate Bridge on a glorious blue sky day.
Golden Gate Bridge in winter (ha!)
My beautiful friend Ray was visiting friends in San Francisco for the weekend and called me to join them for lunch in Tiburon. I used the jaunt to the Bay Area to take care of some bike business and so found myself crossing the Golden Gate to get to Tiburon in Marin County. The mid-day traffic was moving and I was making good time, so I pulled off at the popular vista point on the Marin side of the bridge. Every family visiting San Francisco that weekend seemed to be here to take photos. It was worth the effort navigating a parking space.
Continuing on past the turn off to Saucelito, I was not sure how difficult it was going to be to get to Tiburon, yet I was thankful Ray did not choose a restaurant in Saucelito as the last couple of times I have tried to drive through I have been caught in seriously slow traffic on the main drag. Soon enough I was zipping down a beautiful road that hugs the bay to Tiburon.
What a gem of a place! I passed a large gathering of bicyclists to park in the public parking (not free). We met up at Guaymas Mexican restaurant next to the ferry terminal. We could watch people coming and going from our outdoor table. Climate change stinks except when you can eat outside on a winter’s Saturday and worry about getting a sunburn.
Tiburon, California in Marin County
The food was good. The company made the lunch great. We had fun talking and trying each others food. I asked about all of the cyclists and Ray and friends explained that a lot people ride from SF, across the bridge to Tiburon and then take the ferry home. Brilliant.
Afterward we walked around the corner to Caffe Acri for a coffee and dessert. Perfect accent to a beautiful day with my beautiful friend Ray.
Just saying the name of the island is a delight: Tiri Tiri Matangi. It is an inspiring example of intentional habitat restoration and a testament to the 100,000 volunteers who have transformed it from an over-grazed sheep ranch into native bush with a dozen rare NZ birds.
little blue penguin nesting box made of rock
I read about it some time ago and finally managed to carve out the entire day you need to ferry from Auckland to enjoy this wonderful bird sanctuary. The ferry only leaves the Auckland harbor once a day at 9:00 a.m. and returns by 5:00 p.m. The cost per adult is $66 and there is no additional charge to enter the wildlife reserve.
The ferry ride is comfortable depending on the weather, and I recommend, as in all outdoor NZ adventures, wearing layers and bringing a waterproof jacket. Volunteer guides sell maps of the island for $1 NZ and the money supports the restoration work. There are signposts on the island, but come on, you can give a $1 for a good cause and a better map! The key to the success of the island as a bird sanctuary is the removal of all predators. It made me giggle to think of checking my backpack for mice, but seriously, I would not want to be the jerk who brought a pest onto the island. Similarly you’ll be asked to take every scrap of trash out with you and to bring your lunch in a plastic container as a further pest precaution.
Similarly, the volunteer guides will give you a walking tour for a $5 NZ donation to the restoration work. This is a bargain as they are very knowledgeable and passionate. Your group leader is randomly assigned (you can stay with your people) and the group selects what level of walk you want (and how long). Be aware, that in spite of the many, many hours of volunteer service to improve the trails, they are still very steep in places. If you have mobility challenges, there is a paved road that goes to the lighthouse and visitor center. Also, it should go without saying to wear appropriate shoes, yet one woman had shoes that “couldn’t get muddy.”
View the penguins through the hatch window; unless there is a sign saying “do not disturb”
Almost as soon as we left the dock and headed down the trail we came to the little blue penguin nests. One of the advantages of the reserve is that it provides ample opportunity for scientific study only a 75 minute ferry ride from the largest NZ city. I learned about the island from guidebooks and from reading Jacqueline Geurts’ book, The Ecology of Little Blue Penguins. She did her research on Tiri. We were able to see a blue penguin at rest by lifting the hatch.
We continued on the hike and listened to the songs of various rare and endangered New Zealand birds. The restored bush was also lovely and it is outgrowing its “planted look”. The volunteers have set up various viewing experiences to better show off bird behavior, such as the tui feeding station near the visitor’s center. I am not an avid birder and even I caught the enthusiasm of our guides and strained to hear and see birds. Binoculars are a terrific idea.
Our guide Trish did a super job of explaining the history of Tiri. This video clip explains it best.
We finished our guided walk at the lighthouse and visitor center. There is free coffee and tea at the visitor center and picnic benches both indoor and out. By this time we had hiked a couple of hours and the wind had really kicked it up a couple of notches.
Top of Tiri Tiri Matangi is the automated lighthouse
There is a gift shop and I did make some “additional donations” to the restoration effort. A kind volunteer put my name on my shopping bag and brought it to the boat launch at the end of the day (like duty free without the alcohol).
There is something so soothing and lovely about a walk in the bush. The best way to experience is through photos.
I love the tui bird so I was thrilled to see so many at once!Very, very old Pohutukawa tree near beach on TiriPonga tree fern; the symbol of New Zealand
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