Rediscovering Santa Barbara, Part I

IMG_0219Santa Barbara is a great place to visit but because it is awkward to get there from Sacramento I had not visited in years. Until UK Sarah selected it as our destination for our US adventure this year. It was an absolute joy from the food to the lodging to the variety of activities available. Then this is always a beach if you just want to veg.

The hardest part was navigating to and from LAX for the all important pick up and drop off to Air New Zealand. LA traffic. Need I expound?

It took us a little over 3 hours to drive north from our breakfast stop in Santa Monica. We were not in a hurry and the views are at times lovely. We were there before fire season thankfully. The sky was gray in the morning followed by a lovely blue in the afternoon. The temperature was perfect for walking in the botanic gardens and cycling along the waterfront.

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We stayed at the Harbor House Inn conveniently located with bicycles for guests.

We stayed at the Harbor House Inn and found it easy to walk almost everywhere we wanted to go or to use the guest cycles to pedal to the downtown shopping or along the shore. The first night we walked to the harbor and enjoyed amazing chowder and seafood at Brophy’s. The next morning we walked around the corner to the only remaining (and original) Sambo’s restaurant. I have so many memories of breakfast and lunch with my grandparents Olson at the Santa Rosa Sambos. I had to relive this experience. Nothing, and I mean nothing, has changed… menu, decor, and politically incorrect name.

On our first full day we checked out the Old Mission Santa Barbara somewhat of a misnomer since it is still an active Catholic church. It is a great way to get grounded in the history of Santa Barbara.

After a refreshing break at the Daily Grind, we visited the beautiful Santa Barbara Botanic Garden. The warm afternoon had us seeking the shadier walks and moving just a little slower. There is an interesting early water irrigation system and some beautiful old trees.

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You may also reach Santa Barbara by train. One of the other group of guests at our Inn had walked a couple of blocks from the train station with their luggage. Almost everything is walkable or biking distance from the Inn so it makes a completely viable car-free option.

Perfect Days

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View of Auckland from the ferry to Devonport

What does the perfect day look like to you? Of course it depends on where you are. In New York City it might start with coffee and a bagel, include a visit to the zoo in Central Park and end with a Broadway play and a nightcap. I remember one day in Belfast it included taking the bus into the central business district and fossicking around the shops, enjoying a coffee, then listening to Brian Keenan read from his latest novel at the literary festival.

Today is a perfect day at home. I am free of engagements and I can do what I like. I’ve walked to the bakery and farmers’ market. Then I went through my stack of travel magazines. I am watching Poldark (season 1) and Netflix. It is a pretty day and mild weather for July. It is a good day for a bike ride or a hike. My perfect today is full of rest instead and may include a nap.  Once the kids, my brother and I were in Dublin and our perfect day included a long afternoon of drinking coffee and enjoying our own company. Then we found the perfect stew for dinner.

Auckland is someplace I have spent many of perfect day. It often includes a visit to the Auckland Museum. I just received the Spring newsletter (remember, seasons are opposite the Northern hemisphere) and there is an interesting new exhibit opening in October called “Sound.” It spotlights the history of pop music in New Zealand. I will check it out when I visit in November. Days in Auckland also include shopping in Trelise Cooper and Unity Books or taking the ferry and mooching around Devonport.

Wyeth Family a Circle of Artists

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We needed to buy the Brandywine Treasure Trail Passport at one of the stops and we had some time before we could check in. My friend Carole’s colleague suggested we check out the Brandywine River Museum of Art. Brilliant!

Our entrance fee was part of the Passport, but I also would have entered for free because I am a member of the Crocker Art Museum with a North American Reciprocal sticker. Plus I received the member’s discount at the gift shop.

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Mo Willems illustration of Elephant and Piggy

The building is adapted from a historic mill on the Brandywine River. The stairwell and elevator are in the round tower and it was surrounded by large floor to ceiling windows. There are three floors of galleries.

We went to the 3rd floor first because I was anxious to view the special exhibit, “Get the Picture: Contemporary Children’s Book Illustration.” It was wonderful. I am fairy book godmother to several children because reading is fundamental to a child’s creativity and success. And because it is delightful to read children’s books. I discovered several new books including my new favorite: The Boss Baby by Maria Frazee.

boss babyThere are three generations of Wyeths featured in the museum. NC Wyeth is the patriarch. He was an accomplished painter and illustrator. You may have seen his illustrations of Treasure Island. His sister was also talented. Then his son and daughters were talented and his son-in-laws also painters. His son Andrew Wyeth has a gallery too. His paintings are also in the Metropolitan Museum of Art and other high profile galleries. His son Jaime Wyeth is also featured with his many portraits, children’s book illustrations and other paintings.

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NC Wyeth’s painting

Our admission is good for 2 days so we are hoping to go back tomorrow for the tour of NC Wyeth’s home and studio. It will cost an extra $8 but it seems like a bargain to us.

I bought some children’s books at the gift shop, plus postcards. There was good selection of a beautiful variety of books, cards and posters. There is also a cafe but we didn’t get a chance to try it.

I don’t think you have to be an art aficionado to enjoy this museum. The setting is beautiful and galleries full of mostly landscapes and other appealing pictures. Check it out when you are near Wilmington, Delaware.

IMG_0535Next day: we went back to the museum and bought the ticket for the tour of NC Wyeth’s home and studio. We boarded the shuttle bus with one other person and rode to the family home within a few miles of the museum. The docent met us at the drive and gave a very informative tour of the home. Then we reboarded the bus to drive up the hill to NC’s studio. Wow. If I were a painter I’d have serious studio envy. The north facing windows were conducive to painting. There was a room for props, a main studio for illustrations, still lifes and portraits, then you step into the studio designed for painting huge murals. Impressive.

Walking Where Jane Austen Once Walked

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The poet Shelley stayed here when he was sent down from Oxford.

I set aside one of my days in London to follow the path of Walk 5: Soho to the British Museum from Walking Jane Austen’s London by Louise Allen. I started from Paddington Station, but the Bakerloo line was closed for maintenance so I walked to the next station and got off at Oxford Circus.

Oxford Circus is a busy shopping area with a Top Shop, Marks and Spencer’s, and street performers, people raising money for charity, and tourists. It is hard to imagine Jane Austen might have once walked here. I walked towards Poland Street and glanced down Argyll Street before crossing. I spied the Liberty Stores and took a detour (see earlier post).

IMG_0166I rejoined the walking tour and entered Soho. The book gives a variety of historical facts not all of which are directly related to Austen but from the same time period. Occasionally, there are tidbits like, “The house of Doctor James Stanier Clarke, the Royal Librarian who showed Jane around Carlton House, was on the north side of No. 37. In December 1815 he wrote to her to offer the use of his personal library and to assure her that there was always a maid in attendance. There is no record of Jane’s response to the shocking invitation to visit an unmarried man’s home.” (p61)

I got to the brink of Chinatown and I was beginning to flag. I realized I was also a few blocks from the famous Foyles bookstore. I left off the walking tour and went in search of books, a loo and some hot tea. Little known fact, the creator of the mystery series Foyle’s War named the lead character Christopher Foyle for his favorite bookstore. There a number of outlets but 107 Charing Cross Road is the flagship. I started on the 5th floor at the cafe and then leisurely worked my way through every floor.

I rejoined the tour and walked to Bedford Square where I discovered not every blue historic marker is so special. On to the British Museum. The British Museum’s collection is first rate. The empire gave them the opportunity to haul a lot of cool loot back to London. I was disappointed that a few things have changed since I my last visit. I do not remember so much junk for sale in the center reception area, plus cafes. The museum is free of charge (although a 5 pound donation is suggested). I was not interested in a sandwich wrapped in plastic so I moved on to find a place for dinner.

The most direct way to get back on the Tube at Tottenham Court Road was also closed so it took a little longer to get back. By this time my ankles and feet were not responding to the signals from my brain so I went back to my room at the Hilton and put my feet up. I had yarn and stationary to sort through from the Liberty stores.

IMG_0192There are 8 walks in all to appreciate Jane Austen and the rich history of London. It also helps to pay attention to the layers of detail all around.

 

 

Sharing Travel Resources

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Over New Zealand; photo by Sarah Clare

My son Tevis is spending 4.5 months in Southeast Asia on a backpacker’s holiday. He made all of his own travel arrangements. I was having difficulty finding flights from London to Florence and Venice to London. I sent Tev a WhatsApp message asking for advice.

When Tev worked at Google he used a travel hack that was first available to Google employees then to public. Go to Google.com/flights and then search for flights. It is an amazing summary of available flights without all the palaver you find on Travelocity and similar sites. I was able to fix my flights in no time.

I also rediscovered a copy of Smithsonian Journeys, a travel quarterly magazine, that I had saved. It appears to be a new venture. You can buy each issue for $13.99 but cannot subscribe yet. My copy is Fall 2015 and the theme is “The Inca Road.” All of the articles are about the history of the Inca empire and all sorts of interesting articles from Ecuador, Peru and Argentina. It is an interesting approach that plays to the Smithsonian’s strengths. Priced like a paperback, it is worth saving.  They also have tours and other services.

I just discovered a local Jane Austen Reading Group at my local library. As I was leaving I mentioned that I would miss the next month as I will be in Italy and then spending a few days in London. One of the members recommended Walking Jane Austen’s London. Sometimes the best resources are found by word of mouth from other traveller’s.

 

 

Oh Sweet Adelaide

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Adelaide is much like my hometown of Sacramento–similar size and equally flat and easy to navigate by foot or bike. The main thoroughfare is King William Street and the main street for shopping is Rundle Street or Rundle Mall. On arrival I was keen to find a bookstore so I trundled off to Rundle Mall.

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Dymock’s Bookstore was delightful. I found the books on the shelf of “What Australians are reading…” to be strangely familiar, so I asked Pam for help finding authors with an Australian voice. Plus my seatmate on the flight from Melbourne had given me two names: Tim Winton and Robert Drewe. Pam gave me MANY options and I chose Salt Creek by a local Adelaide author Lucy Treloar. It was an excellent story following the misfortunes of a family on the Coorang. I also thought it would be a great gift for Adelaide-native Kate Bridgman.

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The Botanic Garden is wonderful. It is used by families, friends and lovers as a city park. At the same time it has a wonderful collection of plants and beautifully designed gardens. It is an easy walk from Rundle Mall.

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The East End is a particularly fun section of the City. One night I walked there to have dinner at Africola, a restaurant I read about in my pre-trip research. I loved my experience and if I had not eaten so much amazing cauliflower I would have gone to the corner chocolateria and enjoyed more dessert.

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I was staying at Hilton Adelaide Hotel on Victoria Square. It was the headquarters of the Tour Down Under and race village. Just across the square (or diamond) is the St Francis Xavier Cathedral and the hotel is adjacent to the Central Market.

I realize that most people focus on Sydney or Melbourne when they visit Australia. Brisbane is the current “it” city. Many people visit Adelaide with a focus on the wine country because the nearby Barossa Valley is on par with Napa Valley as one of the world’s great wine growing regions. South Australia is also an ideal place to take a cycling vacation. Adelaide is worth the time and effort.

 

 

 

3 Reasons for Girls Weekend in Sonoma

Recently I spent 2 days with girlfriends in Sonoma, California. We had a great time.

We got to eat everything he prepared!
Chef Pierre explaining how to prepare filet mignon. He shops at Costco!
  1. We took a cooking class at Ramekins. This class was not “hands on” except when putting food and wine in our mouths. We sat classroom style and watched Chef Pierre make amazing French holiday food. We left with recipes and very full tummies. Excellent.
  2. Readers Books is a wonderful local independent bookstore.
    Readers Books is a wonderful local independent bookstore.
  3. We made a dent in our Christmas shopping lists! We shopped in Sonoma where there are lots of great shops (and places to stop for tired feet). On the way home we stopped at Yountville and were surprised that the shopping was anemic compared to Sonoma.
  4. We ate fabulous food at Osos, and the El Dorado Kitchen. We also recommend the Girl and the Fig if you get reservations in advance. So much good food! On the way home we stopped at the Oakville Grocery to get a few treats for loved ones at home.

We stayed at the Inn at Sonoma, a Four Sisters Inn. It was very comfortable and more affordable than many other places on Booking.com. The Inn’s location is excellent–walkable to the Plaza, and to MacArthur’s Spa.

Celebrating Light and Santa Lucia

Tonight I enjoyed my first Festival of Light, also known as Santa Lucia Festival. I have been attending St John’s Lutheran Church and when I saw the announcement I decided to host a party.

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Selecting children’s book for kindergarteners at the Avid Reader.

First we met at the Avid Reader and bought books for Ms. Watson’s kindergarten class in Loleta, CA. It is always fun to browse storybooks and to choose a book to match a child’s interest. My friends and their children were such enthusiastic shoppers that we had extra books.

We returned to my house for a light supper and finished wrapping the books. Then we walked to St John’s for the service. The sanctuary was full of beautiful lights. We were all given a candle on our way in. I was full of excitement!

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Festival of Lights at St John’s Lutheran Church. Santa Lucia is in the center.

The service was chock full of special music from the children’s choir, young adults, and Celebration Singers. The last song was the most catchy as we sang:

Deep in the north’rn sky bright stars are beaming;

Christmas is drawing nigh, candles are gleaming.

Glad in her garment white, wearing her crown of light,

Sank-ta Lucia Sankta Lucia.

Glad in her garment white, wearing her crown of light,

Sank-ta Lucia Sankta Lucia.

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Santa Lucia was so graceful with her crown of real candles

Our procession was led by Santa Lucia with her blazing crown of candles, followed by her court of attendants–all in white with red sashes. The littlest girl in white looked like she was less than 4 years old.

The festival is still a very popular tradition in Sweden where at this time of year it is dark almost all day. A festival of light does not have the same impact in California. In the USA, it is remembered by Swedes in Lutheran churches and at Sons of Norway meeting halls.

It is a lovely reminder of the hope that our faith offers and a big dose of beauty.

Cooking Adventure in Sonoma

Ramekins Cooking School in Sonoma, CaliforniaIt is always delightful to spend the day with my friend Stephanie, but difficult to schedule. It took us months to line up our schedule and the available space at Ramekins cooking school in Sonoma, California. It almost did not matter what we were going to learn. As luck would have it, we learned to make the elements of the menu featured in the movie, Big Night. If you are not familiar with the movie–it translates as an Italian feast. This much food would work for a big family party or a non-traditional Thanksgiving meal.

We had a lovely drive over and a delicious lunch at The Girl and the Fig. We had just enough time to walk to the excellent independent bookstore just past the town square. Readers’ Books is a treat. It offers used and new books–all in good condition.

Participants in Ramekins cooking classWe arrived at Ramekins at the appointed time and signed in. The class was $95 per person for about 2 hours of cooking and then an hour of eating what we prepared paired with Sonoma wine. The classroom is set up for teams of 3 or 4 to work on various menu components.

Our Chef Lisa Lavagetto and her assistants had done most of the prep work to be able to make:

  • Fried Calamari with Garlic Dipping Sauce
  • Roasted Beet and Beet Greens Salad with Apples and Goat Cheese
  • Timballo – Pasta Drum with Meatballs, Fresh Ricotta, Asparagus and Hard Boiled Egg
  • Roasted Eggplant stuffed with Tomatoes and Fresh Mozzarella
  • Italian Apple Cake with Grappa.

Salad courseParticipants got to choose their stations but it was a bit of scramble like musical chairs. Stephanie prepped the roasted beet salad and I made the apple cake with grappa. I am not actively cooking in this season of my life. My skills are still sufficient to keep up. I enjoyed the buzz in the room as for many of the people cooking was a passion. We were all talking and tasting as a calamari appetizer was finished early or as the marinara sauce was ready. Chef Lisa based her recipes on those her Italian mother-in-law taught her. We were provided the recipes to take home and the appropriate specific recipe at our stations.

Chef Lisa brought in cooked Timballo ready for serving--a dramatic climax.
Chef Lisa brought in cooked Timballo ready for serving–a dramatic climax.
Slice of Timballo
Slice of Timballo

The assistants also did the hard clean up work. We got to retire to the dining room and enjoy our wine until Lisa and her staff brought in the salad, the eggplant, and then the dramatic Timballo. We finished with the Italian apple cake my team made topped with fresh whipped cream. Everything was molto delizioso.

Finished Apple Cake with Grappa. Yum!
Finished Apple Cake with Grappa. Yum!

We enjoyed the experience so much that we signed up for another class in December before the week was out.

Fossicking Around the Fairfax District in Los Angeles

It is not glamorous looking; however, the Fairfax District is chock full of great shops and restaurants.
It is not glamorous looking; however, the Fairfax District is chock full of great shops and restaurants.

Ahh, what a luxury: an entire Saturday to do as I please. One of the great things about the Elan Hotel is the neighborhood. Good thing since Los Angeles is still very car centric and my friend needed to car to visit her kids in Big Bear. First things first, I treated my television deprived self to several episodes of Fixer Upper on HGTV. Then I set off for a leisurely shop/walk through the Fairfax District.

It is still very hot and sticky, so part of me made up an itinerary of walking to the Farmers Market for lunch and then recovering in the air conditioned a movie theater and watch a film before walking back to the hotel. I set off later than expected and set off down Beverly Boulevard.

Tess at Tweak the Best Gift Store Ever
Tess at Tweak the Best Gift Store Ever

First stop was Tweak gift shop where the owner Tara and I had a great conversation. I loved the shop’s concept: a variety of great gifts with one display item and the rest already gaily wrapped and ready to give.

Starting with a West Elm store, the next couple of blocks were focused on furniture. I was looking forward to checking out my next big purchase at Thrive Furniture with my faithful salesman Joe. If my clients pay me I will be able to take advantage of the Labor Day sale. I love the mid-century modern designs in their showroom.

Shrimp Cobb Salad
Shrimp Cobb Salad

I kept walking and when I hit a red light I turned right toward 3rd Street. As I reached 3rd I saw Blue Plate Oysterette and remembered Steve and Jodi telling us how much they enjoyed it. I am not a big fish or oyster eater, but by this time I was very thirsty and ready for a break. I looked at the menu and started fixating on the shrimp cobb salad. It was superb, as was the service and the ice tea. And as a special treat, the women’s bathroom has the best wallpaper ever!

Adorable women's restroom in Blue Plate Oysterette
Adorable women’s restroom in Blue Plate Oysterette

I put my feet up on my barstool and got out my new Brene Brown book, Rising Strong and settled in for a good while. Brene mentioned an intriguing book, Creativity, Inc by Ed Catmull. I googled bookstores in my area. Up popped the Traveller’s Bookcase which I fully intended to browse. It also mentioned a fancy bookstore with art collector;s books, and then Three Geese in Flight just around the corner from the travel bookstore and quite close to my hotel.

I set off towards the Traveler’s Bookcase and marveled at Los Angeles where people are super body conscious and yet support a donut shop with valet parking and two juice stores on one block. There were at least 4 bakeries within a few blocks including the yummy Cookie Casa Bakery on Beverly Boulevard.

I brake for yarn, so I had to stop at the delicious Knit Culture (more in another blog). At last I reached the travel bookstore. I had a delightful time browsing the shelves and a difficult time choosing what to buy. As I checked out I asked the lovely store clerk Victoria what she knew about Three Geese in Flight as Google did not have any additional information. She heartily encouraged me to contact Sam, the owner of Three Geese in Flight. She said he only opens up by appointment because his shop is in his living room, but that he totally legitimate. She showed me some of his artifacts and books that they carry in the store.

Sam is passionate about history!
Sam is passionate about history!

I reached out to Sam via email and he called me a short while later. It worked best for both of our schedules to meet just after 5 p.m. It was only a half block from my hotel. I spent over two delightful hours discussing books and shopping for my brother who is a professor of American history and archaeology with a personal passion for Native American studies. There was so much to choose from and Sam worked with my budget. It might seem a bit eccentric to go to his home to shop but makes sense when you think about the book world today. Most of his sales are via the Internet, so why deal with the overhead of a brick and mortar store?

If you are a bookphile, and especially if you are interested in non-Barnes and Noble selections, then check out his website for Sam’s in-stock list or arrange to stop and shop if you are in Los Angeles.

I rushed back to the hotel to meet my friends for dinner at The Gulp Pub and Restaurant on Pico Boulevard in West Los Angeles. They serve delicious burgers, bratwurst and beer. Casual dining was the perfect accompaniment to catching up with more Panthers tribe mates.

Another great day in Los Angeles.