On the first day of my Otago Central Rail Trail adventure, Nick, my Off the Rails guide, shared his enthusiasm for the local wines. As we passed through Cromwell he pointed out a really large tree in Cromwell that all the teenagers in town used to “park up” (or “make out” in America). When the farmer planted his vineyard he kept the tree and named his winery The Wooing Tree.
The Wooing Tree Vineyard in Cromwell, New Zealand.
We continued our drive along the Clutha River and stopped at a lookout for the hydroelectric plant. Looking toward the town of Clyde, Nick pointed out the actor Sam Neill’s vineyard and Two Paddocks winery. I felt like I let Nick down when I told him I was not much of a drinker.
He also gives guests a wine tour if they sign up for the 5 day tour with Off the Rails. Most of the area restaurants offer a selection of local wines and Central Otago boasts some very fine pinot noirs. You can find wine maps online to create your own tour.
Not far from the Auckland Airport is a strawberry field and farmstand in Manukau. Sarah and Marcos discovered the best strawberry soft serve ice cream in the world.
The strawberries are crushed and mixed just before it goes into your cone. It is delicious! And ingenious.
I almost returned to the line and bought another. I wish some of our local strawberry farmers would import the machinery. There would be a line around the block and I would be in it. Yum!
Maybe your headline would say $100 or maybe your threshold is $300 or $400 a night. I thought about this a lot on my most recent trip to New Zealand because I splurged on a few nights at special venues.
When my Aunt and I travelled to Iowa we stayed at a Hampton Inn in West Des Moines. The staff was super friendly and provided great service. The room and beds were comfortable. The bathroom was extra clean and toiletries were provided. There was a mini fridge where we could store our leftovers from dinner and then forget them. All for a bargain price (thanks AARP and AAA) of about $100 a night. What more do you need? And is it worth paying for?
Sorry. You have to decide for yourself. Is it worth spending an additional $200 a night to have more space (a small apartment) at The Rees overlooking Lake Wakitipu? For my Mom and her friends. Hella yes!
When I was planning my most recent New Zealand trip I had Friday to Friday to plan on South Island. I started with a super ambitious agenda that included Christchurch. My Kiwi friends helped me get some perspective, yet I still bit off a little too much. (I will share what I will do next time at the end).
I finally landed in Queenstown, which is the closest airport to Haast and yet it is still a 3-3.5 hour drive to the Wilderness Lodge at Lake Moeraki. As you can tell by my Christmas post on the Fiordland Crested Penguins, I do not begrudge any of the time invested. It was a fantastic experience. It was (gulp) $499 NZ ($387 US) a night for a room that included dinner and breakfast. My room was very comfortable and had a super view of the river. The was the most expensive room I had ever booked and I only stayed one night in part because I had a hard time justifying the expense–even for penguins. Now I realize part of the room rate is because Gerry and Anne McSweeney invest so much in the habitat surrounding the lodge and in providing lodging in as sustainable a way as possible. If I had that trip to do over I would stay at least 2 nights.
I left about 1:00 p.m. to drive about 6 hours to Invercargill in the hopes of visiting Stewart Island. Then I turned around the next day, disappointed and tired without getting to the Island. My neck was torked from driving. I decided to return to Queenstown as quick as I could to enjoy my next splurge: The Dairy Private Luxury Hotel. In February a taxi driver pointed out the hotel and said it was consistently ranked number 1 on Trip Advisor. I was intrigued. The proprietors have taken an old “Dairy” or corner market and several other buildings and converted it to a first class hotel. I called ahead and asked Matt if he could arrange a massage for me in town. It was a Sunday so I thought it might not be possible. He made an appointment for me at the Body Sanctum spa just a few blocks into town from the hotel with Juliana. After the ill-fated massage in the Pyrenees I was hesitant. Wow–best massage I have had since my favorite masseuse Jackie moved away.
The Dairy Private Luxury Hotel is in the heart of Queenstown.
I arrived at the Dairy Hotel in time for afternoon tea. It was a very proper and delicious tea with cream scones and fruit (all prepared in their kitchen). The public rooms in the hotel are so comfortable I actually did make use of them. Other guests also read in front of the fire in the evening. My bed was super comfortable. The bathroom was well appointed except that I could not figure out the bath fixtures which made for a bit of contortion washing my hair. When I mentioned it to Paul he explained that I needed to push the button to start the shower before I turned the water on. Oh well. I only wish I could have stayed longer. Even at $465.00 NZ a night. Just to have Matt’s exquisite omelette again at breakfast. And to be referred to as Madame.
Larnach Castle, Dunedin, New Zealand
The thing about spending more on a hotel night is that it then makes the $290 NZ spent on Larnach Castle accommodation seem like a bargain. Again I justified it with the proximity to penguins. It is only 20-30 minutes from the Royal Albatross Centre–depending on your nerves driving on a windy road where one moment of daydreaming will have you swimming in the bay. The rooms are not in the Castle, which is a historic restored mansion open for tours. The hotel rooms are in specially built buildings and in the retrofitted stables. This price includes full breakfast the next morning but not dinner in the Castle. I pulled out my wallet for the $65 NZ for a 3 course meal with other guests. It includes ghost stories.
My view was impeccable. The windows run the length of the room including the bathroom. There is a short deck too. I could have stayed on the deck and enjoyed the view of Dunedin longer but the gardens were calling. I wandered around the various “rooms” of the garden until it was time to change for dinner. You do not have to dress for dinner. They said “come as you are.” I had packed some nicer clothes and I wanted to mark the occasion of the last night of a very special visit to New Zealand.
View from Room 18 at Larnach Castle lodging.
I still want to visit Stewart Island. And I have heard enough about the Catlins that I want to explore there as well. So driving from Dunedin to Invercargill is probably the best strategy. I do not recommend trying to squeeze Invercargill in as it takes some time to get there and then some flexibility needs to be built in on account of weather.
I have seen so much of New Zealand. Just when I think I have seen everything I learn about something else. Plus I have not done a Great Walk yet. I am looking forward to my next visit already. It helps to keep the “I’m not In New Zealand blues” away.
We arrived in Auckland very early one morning. Our Air New Zealand flight arrived ahead of schedule and customs are a breeze in Auckland International. We rented our car from A2B, drove to St Heliers, ate breakfast at Kahve, freshened up at a friends and then drove to Auckland’s central business district (CBD).
Tevis and Sarah Harriet on way to St. Heliers.
We dropped our car with the valet at Britomart (between the shopping center and transit center), and walked around Britomart and into Milse for exquisite dessert.
One of the many yummy desserts at Milse in Auckland CBD at Britomart (the shopping center, not the transit center).Marcos and Sarah Harriet enjoying frozen desserts at Milse.
Afterward we walked up Queen Street and High Street stopping at shops along the way–always Unity bookstore. Then over to Sky Tower. We paused to watch some brave/crazy souls ride a slingshot kind of bungee (except Sarah who could not bear it). Then we walked round to the Auckland Art Gallery and stopped for a cup of tea at the cafe. After seeing the Goldie Maori portraits and then back toward the Quay.
Bicycle sculpture at Queen and Quay Streets.Rock archway leading to Queen Victoria Park.
Our day was fun, relaxing and a great way to ease into a new time zone. One of the great things about visiting New Zealand at the end of November is the long days of light.
Inner Richmond is a San Francisco neighborhood between Golden Gate Park and the Presidio. Clement Avenue is the main street. I like the Sunset District, North Beach and other neighborhoods, so it was fun to spend a few hours mooching around on Sunday. It is also a day when the Farmer’s Market is open on Clement at 2nd Avenue.
Buy truffles or chocolate bars at Jade Chocolate.
As I write this I am munching on a Krakatoa chocolate bar from Jade Chocolate. It is flavored with black pepper and lemongrass and is a perfect chocolate with coffee for after dinner.
Performer serenades children at Farmers Market.
I lingered over the Petaluma Happy Hens Farms stand where one can buy eggs and grass-fed poultry, pork and beef. Sometimes it is fun to spend time in a neighborhood just hanging out like a local.
Eats Restaurant a great place for breakfast or lunch at Clement & 2nd.
Polo Cafe in Bridgeport Chicago neighborhood on S Morgan Street
How does a café located so far out of the Loop earn the #1 TripAdvisor ranking among Chicago restaurants? This was the question popping in my head like corn during the $16.45 cab ride to Bridgeport, a Chicago neighborhood near the White Sox ballpark.
The cab driver asked me if I was sure this was the place. I could see the sign across the street, although the Polo Café was a few minutes from open. I paid the fare and snapped a few photos and then put my camera away. The neighborhood was sketch. I could not decide if it was gritty and a long way from coming back, or gritty and up-and-coming.
The owner of the Polo Café is a one-man redevelopment district. I admire neighborhood entrepreneurs who have a café and catering company in what used to be a candy company. Next door the old Eagle Theater is now an event venue. And upstairs is a bed and breakfast.
The neighborhood has banners that indicate that it is an art district. Seems more hope than reality so far.
The restaurant is smallish. Two round top tables in the window, maybe a dozen booths inside with a long table for bigger groups. In the corner was the electric piano where a middle age white guy with a soulful voice led the gospel hymns for the Gospel Brunch.
I sat next to the window and faced the fascinating chalk art depicting the political history of the neighborhood and of Chicago. This is where the Daley family began their political careers.
The service was great—my water and coffee cup were never less than half full. The waiter eventually warmed to me after a bad start over the pie on the menu not being available. He thought I was busting his chops. I was truly disappointed not to be able to try the pie. I did try the house specialty, the brioche French toast. Wow. It was amazing, although very sweet with fruit cocktail and whip cream topping. The bacon was also very good—cooked to crisp perfection.
I hung out for quite awhile reading my book and enjoying the hymns. I am not sure why but I got a break on my bill. Coffee was on the house. With some good directions from my waiter I finally took a last sip of water and set off to walk off the brioche.
Brioche French toast with side of bacon at Polo Cafe
It was about a mile on 35th Street to the green line train. I only made one stop at the specialty pet food shop. The one person working there greeted me from the sidewalk (where she just finished a smoke break) and helped me select some treats for Lulu, Cooper and Chaplin. All the while she told me that Bridgeport was indeed gentrifying and that it was a good thing. She loaded me down with samples and I winced only slightly when I realized I was going to need to schlepp these all over Chicago and get them home.
On the way to the Polo Café my female cab driver asked if I was meeting someone at the restaurant. I explained I was traveling alone. She then expressed her amazement that I would travel alone. Her judgment was wrapped in a thin veil of compliment. I had already been thinking that my whole weekend would have been much more fun with a friend. I found myself explaining to the driver that I am not going to wait until I have a partner to do things; however, I felt sad and more trepidation about how far this restaurant was from the hotel.
Then the good times and eats at brunch and then dog treat shopping reminded me why I travel—solo or otherwise. I love the experience and the people I meet.
We continued our tour of cousins and drove from Des Moines to Decorah—after a stop in Bondurant to find Auntie J’s old home place, then north on I-35 and then across the state to the northeast corner in driving rain. We arrived later than we expected and a little emotionally wrung out from navigating in the rain and on unfamiliar roads. We checked into the historic hotel right on main street and then met our cousins and their friends for happy hour.
We had a very happy hour trying locally brewed beer and sharing stories with cousins Terri and Chuck and their friends Darrel and Betty. We then got the windshield tour of Decorah including Luther College, where many of the buildings were designed by Uncle Jack Thompson (now deceased).
We went for another big meal at McCaffrey’s Dolce Vita restaurant. Jeanette and I were beginning to feel like pigs being fattened for bacon and chops. I am going to have to figure out how to navigate the caloric landmines before I visit again.
Decorah takes great pride in their Nordic heritage. The high school mascot is the Vikings and the highlight on the summer calendar is Nordic Days. My cousins Terri and Chuck have a gem of a gift shop specializing in Norwegian gifts called Vanberia.
The next morning we met Terri and Chuck for breakfast (more bacon) at the hotel restaurant, Restauration, a spin off the name of the boat that brought the first Norwegian immigrants to America. Jeanette joined them for a quick trip to the cemetery to honor loved ones and I stayed behind to handle some memos and other work.
We met up and went shopping. Jeanette found a dress shop she really liked and I found the Blue Heron Knittery. We each made additional contributions to the local economy.
A wonderful gem of a museum on the Norwegian immigration experience.
We said our goodbyes and then checked out the Norwegian-American museum. Vesterheim is an excellent small museum that focuses on the story of the Norwegian emigration to the USA. I also took a photo of main street (at top of post) as we got ready to leave town because it was heartwarming to see an intact small town not ravaged by edge of town Walmarts or strip malls.
Beautiful ceramic flowers made by artists in Bergen make up the special exhibit on the main floor.
A real whirlwind trip, we then drove back to Des Moines and on to Stuart.
My aunt Jeanette and I are in Iowa to visit the land of our fathers. I have not been to Iowa in over 40 years. And Jeanette has not been back since 1969. The cousins have been out to visit California in between and kept up regular Christmas card correspondence with Auntie.
Pieper gathering in Stuart: Cousins, cousins and more cousins
So we are on a family adventure., hence Pieper-fest. We flew to Des Moines (via Las Vegas on Southwest Airlines). Our itinerary includes Decorah, Bondurant, and Stuart. We are also going to find the Bridges of Madison County.
I am excited to get to know my cousins better and to experience large family gatherings. We are a small nucleus centered in Sonoma County, California. My mom is an only child and much younger than her cousins and my 2 aunties have small families too.
My dad is missing in action. We do not know his whereabouts in heaven or on earth. So going to Iowa also stirs up a lot of other feelings—some are quite stressful. I know his choices have nothing to do with me and yet I do sometimes feel really pissed off at him for cutting us out of his life. I can say “his loss” for missing out on his terrific grandchildren’s lives, still it does not paper over the hurt. My cousin Paul went right to the heart of the subject and I found it easier to talk about than expected.
This trip is about connecting and reclaiming the Positive in Pieper. I met up with Lori, Annette and Kathy in June at Auntie J’s. I am quickly learning that all seven of Marvin and Ailene’s children are jokesters. I have already colluded on pulling legs.
We have eaten more carbs in a few days than we have in a month at home (it is all delicious: cheesy potatoes, corn, macaroni and cheese). We have seen beautiful sunsets, old fashioned windmills, corn and soybeans ready to harvest and more.
The best part of Iowa is the people. My cousins are lovely and funny people. And every stranger we have met so far has been outrageously friendly. We stopped in Bondurant to see Auntie Jeanette’s childhood home and the current occupants were not home. Their beautiful white German shepherd let us leave a note and the homeowners called us later that day. They were excited to talk to Jeanette and learn more about the farm. Auntie J was really moved.
Watch for upcoming posts on Decorah and Stuart. We are having a terrific adventure.
I signed up for Chris Guillebeau’s book event in Santa Cruz, and convinced my friend Connie to go too. This quickly became a girls weekend starting at her home in Half Moon Bay. Getting anywhere in the Bay Area on the weekend is becoming more of a challenge. I avoided the Bay Bridge and SF City traffic by taking Highways 880 and 92. Although as soon as I got past Highway 280 it was bumper to bumper, because lots of people want to go to the coast for lunch, or to catch a last beach day before fall really sets in, or to buy a pumpkin.
Farmer John’s pumpkin patch has a teepee, a tractor and an annual gathering of Burmese Mountain dogs.
There are pumpkin patches all around the town of Half Moon Bay. The places on Highway 92 are competing with gimmicks like pony rides and bounce houses. Or going for the bargain, “All pumpkins $5”. I like the classic Farmer John’s pumpkin patch right on Highway 1.
We caught up as we drove down the beautiful coastline toward Santa Cruz. There is farmland signs pointing to beaches. Everything is gentle compared to the more rugged coastline below Monterey. The road is much straighter and makes for quicker progress than the windier route to Big Sur. We stopped in Davenport for a later lunch.
Whale of a Diner in Davenport
Our motel, the Continental Inn, was a fun redesign of a classic motor hotel. We LOVED the wood floors—brilliant in a coastal hotel where guests are likely to get sandy.
We did a quick walk around the harbor. I have not been to this part of Santa Cruz since Sarah Harriet completed Bike and Build (SC2SC11).
This morning we took our time and enjoyed the lack of agenda. I finished Colum McCann’s Transatlantic—a lyrical book that features Belfast. Then we drove to the main shopping street, Pacific Street. With a lot of time until Chris Guillebeau’s talk and book signing at 7:00 p.m., we fossicked around shopping and looking for a place to eat lunch. We ended up at the excellent Assembly for brunch. We ate amazing fried green tomatoes and enjoyed a very filling and delicious repast.
Fueling station for fossicking around Santa Cruz, CA.How could I not go to Lulu’s coffee shop in Santa Cruz. Lulu the adventure dog would approve: there is outdoor seating.
Now I am getting some work done while Connie finds a salon for a mani/pedi. I ended up at the Octagon in Santa Cruz called LULU’s!!! How could I not try the coffee? This is my first trip away without Lulu and I am like a new parent enjoying my freedom and fretting about her.
Mini Cooper S to be named Ivy.
Finally, Connie helped me decide to name my car Ivy. This was solidified when we went to Dig Gardens in Santa Cruz. What a shop! It is high praise from me to say it compares to the fabulous Flora Grubb in San Francisco. Garden inspiration. Ideas are flowing.
Traveling alone is a choice that I make regularly. Sometimes people tell me, “I could never do it.” When I ask why it is sometimes because they cannot bear the thought of dining alone. Experience has taught me that sometimes the best encounters with the place and its people happen because I am seated alone and so I am more accessible and open. And the food tastes the same.
Recently my friend Ray shared with me how he uses opportunities to eat alone as a date with himself. While in France and England I had the chance to enjoy dates with myself on several occasions and it does change the atmosphere in a very positive way. Or travel with a group for a long period and suddenly dining alone, eating just what you want, taking only the amount of time you want to take, leaving before or after dessert and coffee. It is divine.
On the last page of the September 2014 issue of Bon Appetit, actor Jason Segal shares his “Rules for eating out alone:
1. Bring a book. When you have a book You aren’t really alone. It’s more alone adjacent.
2. Don’t be bashful. The other people alone probably feel the same way you do. You’re all “alone together.”
3. Think of it as a date with yourself. Get to know yourself. If you get along with yourself, there is a very good chance you will get to go home with yourself.”
americanjulie.com 