Harper’s Ferry a Historic Gem

People outside of Northern California don’t necessarily spend time learning about the 1849 California Gold Rush, but growing up in Sacramento, you can’t help but learn about it. Not surprisingly, people who live in this region of West Virginia you can’t help but absorb a lot of Civil War knowledge. Harper’s Ferry National Park is a gem of a park and so much more interesting than so many of the Civil War battlefields I’ve been to. And this was a continuous battleground over the course of the war.

IMG_4836The park is located on the Appalachian Trail and preserves the place where John Brown was tried and hung. As you walk around the old part of town you can see shops preserved as they might have been during the Civil War alongside a current day bookstore and places to find food or outdoor equipment.

You can also go on hikes or walks along the rivers. I hung out in the Coffee Mill while my friend Nyasha jogged and walked over bridges and along the river. The Coffee Mill was frustrating as so much of what was listed on the menu was unavailable.

We came across re-enactors in several places. I asked the three Confederate soldiers why motivated them to volunteer as living history docents. They are self-professed History nerds.

IMG_4832Parking is also a challenge. I grabbed one of the last spots along the street on Potomac Street. I downloaded the National Park Service parking app and paid via PayPal. After 10 a.m. you can probably expect to use the parking lot up the hill and take the shuttle to the main part of the historic village. I found it difficult to find a way to pay the day use fee. I finally waited in line at the entrance up the hill because I want our National Parks to be around for my grandchildren.

The entrance fee is just $10 per carload or $5 per person if you walk or bicycle into the Park. This is a real bargain at Harper’s Ferry.

I’ve Been to West Virginia!

IMG_4820One more of the few remaining states is “in the bag”. My friend Nyasha and I took a road trip from Alexandria, Virginia to the Harper’s Ferry region. We left on Friday afternoon. It is only a 1.5 hour drive with some traffic. After a quick stop at the Visitor’s Information Center, and then another quick stop to see the Appalachian Trail Headquarters before it closed, we headed toward the oldest town in West Virginia–Shepherdstown.

Shepherdstown has witnessed some traumatic history. After the Battle at Antietam every building save the church was turned into ta hospital to treat wounded soldiers. Over 23,000 people lost their lives in that battle. It is hard to fathom. Without modern medicine and painkillers it is hard to imagine the scene of horror. And this was just the beginning.

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Pull up your horse and tie it up and go to church.

At the Trinity Episcopal church the history marker said that it was not uncommon to have the church full of Union soldiers one Sunday and Confederate soldiers the next. The town (and nearby Harper’s Ferry) changed hands often.

Imagine being a mother trying to feed and clothe your family and keep your children safe while the war raged in your front and back yard. Soldiers confiscating your chickens. Gun battles surrounding you.

Today Shepherdstown is the home of Shepherd University and thrives on tourism.  Gay pride flags were hanging on many businesses in town. We popped into the Four Seasons Books and bought a few of the staff recommendations. I picked up a book of three essays by Elizabeth Catte, What You Are Getting Wrong About Appalachia. You can call it a response to Hillbilly Elegy: “His use of the word ‘we’ transforms the personal reality of his difficult childhood into a universal experience.” She acknowledges that the mythology of Appalachia is powerful and pervasive and provides lots of concrete information (dare I say facts) to explain how much more complex reality is.

The staff person also recommended we try The Blue Moon Cafe. If I return to Shepherdstown I’ll try somewhere else.

We drove on to the Hampton Inn in Charles Town to spend the night. These three towns–Shepherdstown, Charles Town and Harper’s Ferry are all about 10-15 minutes apart. All surrounded by lush green forests and never far from either the Shenandoah or Potomac rivers. It is also cooler so this area is a destination for the motorcyclists and families looking for a break from the heat and humidity of the lowlands.

Netflix Inspired Travel: Milk Bar in DC

img_4788.jpegI freely admit that my travel choices are influenced by Netflix shows, especially Chef’s Table. Season 4 the episodes focus on dessert. I somehow missed the hoopla about Christina Tosi’s Milk in New York City. This June she opened a flagship store with lab in Washington, DC.

Carole and I headed there on a hot and muggy day. We didn’t get the cereal milk softserve. Instead we bought a slice of chocolate malt cake, a slice of birthday cake, and some crack pie to share. Sugar shock in the best way!

IMG_4785This store at 1525 15th Street NW near Logan Circle doesn’t have a lot of indoor seating (as in, air conditioned), and there is limited outdoor seating. There are parking spaces though! And they are offering baking classes here.

IMG_4789We browsed her cookbooks and are seriously exploring taking the chocolate malt cake in the near future. Meanwhile I crumbled my remaining crack pie in my oatmeal this morning and it was very, very good.

Holy Cannoli! Little Italy in Boston’s North End

IMG_4739I was looking for some hidden gems in Boston so I checked out the website Atlas Obscura. Reading about Caffe Vittoria was intriguing. When I shared the address with my son, he’s wanted to go too because it is in Boston’s North End.

You got to love a big city that costs only $10 to Lyft across town. Boston is very compact and you can walk 15 minutes in almost any direction to a new neighborhood and experience something unique and fun.

We were dropped off across the street and faced Caffe Vittoria on the left and Mike’s Bakery on the right. There was a line down the block to get a cannoli from Mike’s Bakery. But we came for coffee and gelato and the coffee related ephemera in Caffe Vittoria. It is also the first Italian coffee cafe in Boston. I loved the pistachio gelato and Tevis enjoyed his blackberry gelato. My decaf Americano was good.

We started walking off our dessert as we headed to the T Station. We paused at North End Park where many people were relishing their cannoli and playing in the fountains. It is a great small park with adult swings and nifty lawn chairs.

People in Boston complain about the T and the need for maintenance. Yet it goes where you need it to go and is affordable. Coming from a place with limited public transportation I find it delightful. We walked home from the station enjoying the cooler evening.

Check Out Boston Public Library

IMG_4707People rarely put a city’s central library on a list of must sees. The New York Public Library reading room is an obvious exception, and the Library of Congress is in a class by itself. So when my waitress at Cafe G at the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum urged me to check out the Boston Public Library and take the tour offered once daily, I listened.

Fortunately admission is free and the tour is also free. This is a theme at the Boston Public Library. “Free For All” is carved in stone over the entrance. The Boston Public Library is the first large library in the nation. It was remarkable that the founding donors who started with a few rooms of books to lend in 1848 opened it to all–even the hordes of Irish and German immigrants who crowded the city at that time.

The Central Library building on Copley Square occupies a full city block. It has occupied this third home since 1895. They spared no expense on the art and architecture, hence the value of a tour from a well-trained docent like Gail. We met in the front foyer and the tour covered a lot of ground from outside the entrance to the third floor galleries to the inner courtyard. It was wonderful to learn more about the politics and controversy that gave us such a beautiful community asset.

Gail explained the blanks on the John Singer Sargent gallery, but only alluded to some conflict that prevented us from seeing the Whistler paintings in the Reading Room. It is all very interesting and worth the investment of an hour.

I also arrived early and enjoyed lunch at the Map Room Cafe. The food is all “to go” so I took my yummy Cobb salad to the nearby courtyard and enjoyed a wonderful dining experience next to the fountain. There is also a Newsfeed cafe in the new modern addition where you’ll find the Children’s Library on the second level. Or you can pay $40 per person and go all out for high tea at the Courtyard Restaurant.

Copley Square has a lot going on. The John Hancock tower is nearby. The Old South Church is the other side of Boylston Street from the library. Also straddling Boylston at the modern library entrance is the Boston Marathon finish. This is also the site of the Patriots Day bombing. Thankfully the area has fully recovered.

One block away is Newbury Street, the main shopping street of the Back Bay neighborhood. Boston is a small big city and it doesn’t take long to walk to Berklee College of Music and the Boston Museum of Art or on to Boston Public Garden.

Swatch: Bead + Fiber

IMG_4659If you find yourself in the South End of Boston and you want to mooch around a bead store or yarn shop you can satisfy both urges at Bead + Fiber. It is walking distance from the Boston Convention and Exhibition Center or Tufts Medical Center. It is also in heart of SoWa Arts Center. I discovered it while enjoying the Sunday open market.

IMG_4658I walked in and was offered a giant bone from the shop dog. Quickly someone asked if I minded dogs. Of course not. By the time I left there were three dogs between customers and the shop keepers. I love it.

IMG_4657There was a lot to look at and the shop offered a/c on a 90 degree day with 50% humidity. I love it.

Meet the Artist Nedret Andre

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Nedret Andre with the Book that inspired her work focused on sea grass: World Atlas of Seagrasses.

On Sundays the SoWa Art + Design District in South End Boston hosts an Open Market. I didn’t know what to expect, so I followed my muse. There are food stalls but we had just eaten a great brunch at Worden Hall. Instead I headed to the tents where makers were selling their creations. I paused at one of the stalls with art by Nedret Andre, the colors and abstractions really spoke to me. Her assistant encouraged me to meet the artist at her studio on the 4th floor of 450 Harrison Street.

 

I worked my way through the market checking out the whimsical art of Mitra Farmand then admiring the print works of Goosefish Press. Finally I beat a retreat to the air conditioned multi-story building of art studios. I took the elevator to the 4th level and sought out studio 415.

Nedret Andre was in her studio. She stood amidst the large canvases beautifully filled with paint and imagination. Her work is all based on the abstraction of sea grass. And before you roll your eyes, appreciate how much she has learned about the ecological importance of sea grass in the New England seashore ecosystem. Nedret’s paintings reveal a world we don’t think much about and hopes to spark our curiosity to learn more about our interdependence with the ocean.

IMG_4662We had a fun conversation with another Julie who stepped into the studio at the same time as me about the menacing green crabs–an invader from Europe who roots up the sea grass. Should we celebrate the intrinsic beauty of the green crabs even though they are destroying the ecosystem for lack of predators?

Nedret has shown her work at many galleries and often collaborates with scientists to give them an opportunity to share their expanding knowledge at the art show openings. You can also learn more on her blog at http://www.nedretandre.com. Or follow her on instagram @nedretandre.

 

Happy Independence Day!

IMG_4764Thousands of people spend the day on the Capitol Mall on July 4th enjoying a concert and waiting for sunset for the fireworks to begin. I celebrated July 4 with my young children about 20 years ago–we ate hot dogs and watched the fireworks from the rooftop of the Department of Interior building.

IMG_4761This year I planned my vacation so I could be in Washington DC when my friend Nyasha from Auckland was going to be in Alexandria at the Virginia Theological Seminary. We enjoyed barbecue with Carole, Gary, Guy, Karly and Holly at Stephanie and Ron’s house on Capitol Hill. Then we walked to the Library of Congress steps to watch the fireworks. It was a very traditional Independence Day celebration except the fireworks were beyond amazing.

If you are in the USA, I wish you a safe and fun Independence Day.

I finally made it to New Hampshire!

IMG_4639I am quickly closing in on my goal of visiting all 50 states. I actually was already quite close when I received my National Geographic mini atlas in the mail. I began marking all of the places I’d been and states I’ve visited and realized that I only have a handful left.

I used the criteria that our Habitat for Humanity global village team created in Belfast. We were all ticking off the places we’d been. Some of the long time builder volunteers had been to the “Stans” and other far flung places. Other people sheepishly admitted they were on their first trip out of the country. We congratulated them. Inevitably the conversation about what counts as a visit came up. I posited that until you are 18 any visit–including a layover at the Amsterdam airport counts. You want children to be excited about travel and don’t want to squash enthusiasm by saying passing through a country on a train or bus don’t count.

IMG_4644Once you are an adult you must meet a higher standards. Our group debated what this meant. We determined that it “counted” if you left the airport or train station and either did a bit of shopping or eat a meal. The next weekend the group of first time travelers intrepidly took a ferry to Scotland, then a train to Glasgow and did some shopping and ate a meal. Good on them!

I thought of this as I ticked off the states. New Hampshire made me pause. I had only driven through it on my way from Boston to Maine. I don’t even know if we stopped to get gas. I asked my son if, on our way to eat at our favorite Chinese restaurant in Portland, ME, we could explore New Hampshire.

IMG_4638This posed a problem. If you go on Trip Advisor and ask what there is to do in New Hampshire it comes up with lots of mountains to climb or ski. It was only after we got the recommendation from a NH native to check out Portsmouth that we could do a more refined search and get some ideas. We left Boston at 11:00 a.m. and needed to stop at The Container Store, and then we hit a lot of traffic. We didn’t get to Portsmouth until after 1:00 p.m. I was feeling peckish and yet we wanted to save room for dinner.

Portsmouth is a terrific town for fossicking around the Market Square all day, occasionally popping into one of the many restaurants for a meal or a drink. We grabbed a quick bite a Popovers. I tried the clam chowder (solid 4 out of 5) and split a giant popover with my son–a real taste of New England. We walked all around town hopping in and out of shops. Funny how now in adulthood both my son and I love a good kitchen supply store.

After a few hours we ran out of downtown blocks to explore and we got back in the car in continued on our way to Portland. We decided to go via Highway 1 for a more scenic experience until the traffic delays made the highway more attractive.

The only states now remaining are Ohio, Kentucky, West Virginia, South Dakota and Montana, plus Puerto Rico because Puerto Rico should be a state.

Designing Woman: Modern Tips from a Turn of the Century Woman with Impeccable Taste

IMG_4635 The first time I visited the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum I went on the guided tour. It was like taking information in from a firehose and there wasn’t time to pause and stare at your favorite bits. So much of the museum is about the atmosphere Gardner created. I wholeheartedly recommend the tour, and I am glad I was able to return and spend a couple of hours on my own.

Isabella Stewart was born in New York City in 1840 and moved to Boston when she married her husband Jack Gardner at age 20. She inherited her father’s fortune and began collecting art. Her friend Bernard Berenson helped her pick up some magnificent Italian Renaissance art from Venetian royalty experiencing hard times. She began designing a Palace to house her collection with exquisite attention to detail. It is located in Fenway and you gain admission with just $15.

When I looked back at my photos (non flash photography is allowed) at days end I realized that I was taking more pictures of decorating ideas that I was of the most renowned pieces. (Check out  January 25 blog). Here are the top 8 design tips:

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Gardner’s private entrance
  1. Make the most of first impressions. Don’t let your foyer become just a shoe dumping ground.

IMG_46212. Paint at least one wall “zappy blue”. The last paint color that inspired me was Jefferson’s choice of robin’s egg blue in Monticello. This is even more exciting. Gardner created the recipe and sent it to Italy to be mixed. I wonder if my local Sherwin  Williams can recreate this.

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The summer light is harsher on the collection–everything appears a little dustier and worn than in winter.

3. Take your objects d’art out of the cupboard and dedicate a sideboard or table to displaying them.

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4. Add walls or doors when your art collection outgrows your display capacity.

 

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5. Find clever space for bookshelves on top of hallways and doorways.

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6. Take your “great room” to the next level. I once went to a fundraiser at the Governor’s Mansion that the Reagans built but Jerry Brown refused to occupy. It’s owned by a couple who filled every square inch with furniture. This sparse version (and only half is in photo) feels so much more grand.

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7. Build around a courtyard. I’m creating this out of my postage stamp backyard.

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8. Create a snug. Room too large to be cozy? Use fabric to create a room within a room.

And remember good design is timeless.