Northlands A New Zealand Must See

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Hundertwasser Public Toilets in Wakawaka

People are often pressed to decide where they will concentrate their few days in New Zealand. If you only have a week, then many people barely touch down in Auckland and then proceed to the South Island to see the many national parks or for the adrenaline adventures. If you have two weeks you might add Auckland or Wellington. It seems only when people have 3 weeks or more that people make it to the Northland (the long peninsula of land North of Auckland).

I have visited New Zealand over a half dozen times and lived in St Heliers for 5 months and yet I never made it north of Matakana. I was going to borrow a car and go for a few days on my own, and then my friend UK Sarah asked if she could come along. And bonus! she did all the driving. This allowed me to really enjoy the landscape as we drove along.

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Detail of the women’s sign for the public loo at Wakawaka

The Northland region is subtropical and as you drive north on Highway 1 you can feel a shift in vibe. There is a strong Maori influence and definitely more relaxed.

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Fun railroad for families in Wakawaka
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Classic colonial architecture at Lupton Lodge

There are a number of places to stay along the way. We stayed over three nights along the way–one night each in Omapere, Pahia and Whangarei. The last place we stayed was a low key but exquisitely restored Lupton Lodge. We reserved a table for dinner and selected our entrees ahead by email. Everything was delicious. I relaxed and Sarah took advantage of the pool to go for a swim.

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Main bedroom in our 2 room suite at Lupton Lodge

The whole experience was too brief! I was texting back and forth with my son and I realized that I would really like to spend 2-4 weeks every winter in New Zealand. I can imagine staying in Kerikeri or some other bach in the Northlands.

 

 

Ferry to Russell for Lunch

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The Bay of Islands stretch between Pahia and Russell. Tis truly beautiful.

Russell is most easily reached by ferry. The ferry ride is not long and feels like an outing. Like a hay ride or a sleigh ride. Anticipation rises as you draw near to Russell.

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The ferry crosses  frequently and costs an adult $12NZ round trip or $6NZ return.

Once we got to Russell we were not hungry or thirsty. My friend UK Sarah had explored the Anglican church on a previous visit so we set off to find it. You cannot get lost in such a small village. The church and yard are lovely. We spent about a half hour looking about and then returned to the village proper.

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Back in the day Russell was the Las Vegas of New Zealand. Whalers and sailors and bad boys looking for sex, alcohol and other good times or mischief stopped in Russell (or Hell Hole). Now Russell is a quiet retirement community and fun place to visit for a day.

I was craving fish and chips and we found a great place in the Gables Restaurant. We sat outdoors and enjoyed a hearty lunch in the garden.

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There is definitely a certain laid back vibe in Pahia and Russell. It is probably the light and the water. Make sure you have set aside some time to just hangout.

 

 

 

 

Waitangi Worth a Visit

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The house where the Queen’s Governor General James Busby and family lived when he hosted the signing of the Treaty of Waitangi, which legitimized the movement of Europeans to New Zealand under international law.

UK Sarah and I continued our road trip to Pahia and checked into the Pearl of the Bay motel. We spent the first night noshing on a picnic dinner we assembled at the Farmers Market and catching up on our reading and email. The next day we drove straight to Waitangi, which is adjacent to Pahia.

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The Waitangi Treaty Grounds charge an admission to non-Kiwis. When we were there in January the new museum was just days from opening. The gift shop was still small, although there is a lovely cafe with outdoor dining between the main entrance and the waka or war canoe.

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Hobson Beach shelters the iwi Ngāpuhi’s ceremonial war canoe, the world’s largest. The war canoe inspires some silly pictures by tourists.

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Te Whare Runanga is a carved meeting house for the local Maori iwi.

As the website says: Te Whare Rūnanga (the House of Assembly) is a carved meeting house in traditional form but is a unique expression of its purpose. It stands facing the Treaty House, the two buildings together symbolising the partnership agreed between Māori and the British Crown, on which today’s Aotearoa New Zealand is founded.

We spent a couple of happy hours walking the grounds on the mostly paved trails or elevated boardwalks, reading the exhibits and walking through the Treaty House and carved meeting house. There was a bus of tourists yucking it up at the waka, but we were able to easily walk ahead of them and enjoy the grounds in relative peace.

The Treaty Grounds was readying for the annual ceremony celebrating the historic occasion on Waitangi Day–a national holiday. This particular ceremony is always marked by loud and angry protests from various Maori people. Free speech is alive and well in New Zealand. This year was also going to include the museum dedication.

 

 

Kerikeri is Pretty Pretty

The best way to explain the allure of Kerikeri in the Northland of New Zealand is to show you.

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The view as you drive through the Northland changes from water and natural landscapes to cultivated agriculture and forest. Punctuated by thick forest. There are small villages dotted throughout.

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We left Omapere and stopped at the market for a flat white. Before we knew it we were in Kerikeri. UK Sarah drove straight to the historic mission house and storehouse. The Kemp House and Stone Store are some of the oldest buildings in New Zealand. Beautifully maintained and curated, they are fascinating. They look out on this cove and it was hard to remember that the earliest missionaries would have felt their isolation from home much more keenly than we do today. They might not have found this place as idyllic as I do.

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We stopped at The Pear Tree for lunch. It is right next door to the Storehouse and offers the most relaxing outdoor space for dining. The food was good and we enjoyed talking to the young man who waited on us and then brought out our lunch.

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These two signs epitomize the Kiwi  outlook for me.  A wry sense of humor, a spirit of adventure and more.

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It is hard not to think the missionaries had it really great. Who would not want to live in this house on this cove today?

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As museums go, the Storehouse has some really terrific exhibits that explain the early history of European settlement. The gift store on the ground floor is really cool too. I admit sometimes I spend more time in the gift shop than I do the museum. This time the exhibits fascinated even more.

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Big Trees in New Zealand’s Northland

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It was pouring rain by the time we drove to the Kauri tree grove just south of Omapere in the Northland of New Zealand. It did not dampen our enthusiasm for these gorgeous big trees one bit. UK Sarah and I made this the main destination of Day One of our Northland road trip.

We left St Heliers in Auckland in the morning and arrived in Matakohe in time to see the Kauri Museum and eat lunch at a nearby cafe. The museum was a great way to understand the special attributes of this giant tree and its history. Unfortunately, it has a similar fate as California’s redwoods and there is only a remnant left.

We continued on Highway 12 getting lost only once. We stopped at the first grove and slipped into our raincoats. Sarah had an umbrella but I decided to rely on my slicker so I would have my hands free to take photos. Please pause to use the equipment provided to spray off your shoes so you do not introduce disease among the roots of these important legacy trees.

We stopped one more time at a second grove of trees. Then sopping wet and starting to get cold, we scooted to our hotel at the end of the highway in Omapere. We were staying at the Copthorne resort and it was terrific. The hotel room was very large and comfy with great views of the bay. The bar and restaurant was very good and we slept soundly. I could have stayed longer but there was more of the Northlands to see.

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View from our hotel balcony.

New Zealanders Really Know How to…

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Ah, the flat white.

New Zealanders do two things really well: coffee and rugby.  No, wait.

New Zealanders do three things really well:  coffee, rugby and war memorials. No, wait…

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Memorial on One Tree Hill

 

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Devonport War Memorial
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The best of all: the Auckland War Memorial Museum

New Zealanders do four things really well: coffee, rugby, war memorials and the postal service.

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I love the New Zealand Post. First, the mail is delivered by Posties on bicycles. Think of how much money could be saved (and how good for the environment) if the USPS used bikes in cities and towns. And look what good shape these posties are in! Plus even villages have postal service in dairies (small grocery stores). And because the Post has a relationship with the state owned Kiwibank, people in small towns also have access to banking services.

New Zealanders do four things really well: coffee, rugby, war memorials and the postal service. No wait, New Zealanders do five things really well: coffee, rugby, war memorials, postal service and public toilets!

No, wait…

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Many of the public toilets in the Northland are beautifully designed, and every loo in NZ is cleaner than any public toilet I have ever used in the USA.

There are six things New Zealanders do really well:  coffee, rugby, war memorials, postal service, public toilets and public libraries!

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The Devonport library:  City of Auckland is still expanding their library system!

There are more things kiwis do well, like conservation of natural areas and hiking huts and bike trails and water sports and blending te reo Maori and poetry festivals and wine and lamb. You will just have to go and see for yourself and add to this list.

 

 

 

Memories of Cuba

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Photo: National Public Radio 

I am so excited to read stories about President Obama’s visit to Cuba. Ever since I visited Cuba with the California Agricultural Leadership Program in the late 1990s, I have hoped that someone would find the political courage to normalize relations with Cuba.

Our group had permission from the US Treasury to visit and it was part of a three week educational trip that included Jamaica, Dominican Republic and Haiti. We first landed in Santiago de Cuba and then spent most of our visit in Havana with a one day field trip to an eco-resort.

Cuban baseballI have many terrific memories of Cuba including drinking my first mojito. One of my favorite memories recurred regularly when we moved around Havana by bus. Several of my fellows learned that real quality baseballs are hard to come by (even though they are made in Haiti). In Cuba, children are still playing baseball in stickball games on streets all over Havana. So whenever we passed a group of children, Dan or Todd would ask the driver to stop, they would whistle to get the kids attention and then they would toss out a couple of brand new baseballs.

Every time something magical happened. The children would catch them, stare open mouthed and wide-eyed and then toss it to a playmate who would have a similar reaction. Then they would hoop and holler and thank us. We would all wave and grin and feel real joy.

I hope President Obama has a terrific visit and that progress is made toward improving relations between our countries. Just remember Mr. President, US Treasury limits your cigar imports to $100 US.

Flashback to the Aerogramme

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Remember snail mail? Do you recognize this stationary? I still love to send real mail by USPS. I still write postcards home when I travel. It has become ridiculously expensive too by the time you buy the postcard and the stamp. It does not pencil out if you compare to email.

I remember my first trip overseas. I went with Teen Missions to Catrine in Ayrshire, Scotland. I purchased so many Aerogrammes to write to the people who supported my mission, to friends and family and to anyone I thought might write back. My teammates were all jealous of how many letters I got at mail call. But I worked hard to get them!

First there is the challenge of writing on the very thin Aerogramme paper. You cannot use a felt tip as it bleeds, and you have to leave room for the flaps. Then fold it carefully and lick the glue just so. You want it to stick but not to soak the paper and possibly run the ink. airmail envelope

I  have been reminiscing because I bought the movie Brooklyn on Google Play and rewatched it. The scene where Eilis puts all of Tony’s air mail envelopes containing his love letters in the drawer unopened–gasp!

There is something lost when we rely entirely on email and we no longer handwrite letters. So much more thought went into letters because of the labor involved. Call me a romantic but I believe a relationship unfold as letters travel back and forth.

Of course letters also create misunderstandings. Anyone who has lived at camp for the summer, or overseas for an extended period can tell you a story about the anguish a letter created until the next one arrived to explain what was really meant. I still can feel the devastation when I learned from a letter that my mom had given my kitten away while I was at camp.

The upsides outweigh the downsides. Afterall, who is going to unpack a box of their grandmother’s emails after she dies. Letters give an insight to people we love in a way that no other medium equals.

Write a letter to someone you love today!

 

 

 

Shop in Adelaide’s Central Market

IMG_9055It is “Throwback Thursday” and this is my last post for my recent adventure in Australia. This shopping experience reminds me so much of the Russian Market in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. In my Phnom Penh adventures there were many markets, but the Russian Market was the most staggering. It is still the largest market that I have ever experienced for variety and depth. And the bargains! (sigh)  Alas those photos are stored on various crazy discs and not easily accessible. Instead we will feast on this shopping experience just a block from my Hilton Hotel in Adelaide.

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Adelaide’s Central Market is not a place I would go for bargains. However, under one waterproof roof you can find loads of produce, cheese, bread, meat, used books–you name it–someone probably sells it. It is Los Angeles Farmers Market, a flea market and more all rolled under one roof.

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I especially liked how the vendors called out what they had to offer. It made it more fun and I do think it encourages you to make a purchase. California farmers markets are laid back by comparison and lack the energy of this place. And it is open everyday. I bought used books and some cheese and bread for lunch.

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Who can resist cheese?

 

Taste of Cape Town in Adelaide

Since eating at Africola in Adelaide I have been thinking of South Africa. Specifically I have been thinking about flying to Cape Town to see the penguins and to enjoy some time in the bush looking at animals.

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The decor is fun, but my favorite part was the sign on the door that asked patrons to leave quietly out of consideration to the neighbors. Hint, hint Rind in Midtown.

I read about Africola in Travel+Leisure magazine. I made my reservation on a website similar to OpenTable. It gave me the option of a table or at the bar and since I was dining solo–I chose the bar.

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Not sure if you can appreciate the deliciousness of the cauliflower above. It was amazing. I could have just eaten it for dinner. I wish I had the recipe. I even bought cauliflower when I got home at the farmers market. But it just tastes like cauliflower. meh

The service was terrific. With a gin and tonic and dessert my bill was about $65 US. I tipped even if it is not the custom in Australia.

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Got to love a restaurant with Nelson Mandela on the menu and cornbread for all patrons.

If I could eat like this at every evening meal in South Africa I would be very content. South Africa is not in my budget for 2016… Perhaps in 2017.

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Yes this dessert was too chocolatey. Never thought I could say that… it was out of balance. Only misstep all night.